We’ve been on Oahu now for a little more than a week. The temperature has really picked up since we first arrived here, climbing up to almost 30 degrees celsius lately. Most pleasant 🙂 We’ve also enjoyed some good surfing up on the infamous North Shore. I’ve been renting different boards every day. It’s fun to try on a variety of boards, and definitely a useful experience to experiment with different shapes and sizes. Here’s a quick run-through of the latest surf:
Saturday: Went to Sunset Beach. The size of the waves were about 3-5 feet, little wind, and a quite small crowd. Super conditions in other words, I caught a bunch of waves, and had a ton of fun out there. The only gnarly part was that the waves were breaking over some half-way shallow reef, so I felt the bottom a couple of times, but still felt I had control.
Sunday: Went to Sunset Beach again. The swell had picked up quite a bit, and waves up to double overhead (12 feet) were coming in. The spot was a completely different scenario compared to the day before. It’s some of the biggest waves I’ve ever been out in, and they were hollow as well, so I didn’t catch a single one. However, it was a very useful experience just to be out there, and maneuver around the sets. I did get washed pretty good one time though, must have been under for about ten seconds. No stress though. Here’s what it was like (look way out there):
Monday: Checked out a spot called Freddyland. When we first got in it was very good, but it changed after about ten minutes. The waves became fat and tricky to read, not least to catch. An average day of surfing.
Tuesday: Went back to Sunset Beach again. The swell had calmed down, waves were about 4-6 feet, and almost no wind. Pretty big crowd, but only a few really good surfers were out there. I rented a board with a GoPro mount, so I reckoned it was time to do some filming again. I caught a nice wave after only five minutes out there, rode it for a little while, then jumped off. As I got back up, the GoPro was nowhere to be seen! The damn thing fell off 😦 I don’t know how it happened, the foot must have been worn or something. It felt rock solid when I attached it, but I guess not. Such a bummer, bloody hell is an understatement. Guess I’ll have to buy a new. Besides the very expensive wave it was a good session out there.
We also did a small hike this morning, before going surfing. Went up a small peak called Diamond Head which is right by Honolulu. It’s an old volcanic crater, and the top offers a nice view of the city and the other surroundings. There used to be an army base up there, and the bunkers are part of the attraction.
This almost concludes our stay in Hawaii. On Thursday night we’re flying over to Los Angeles.