Trestles

The last few days have been spent in the Costa Mesa and Huntington Beach area. Yesterday we went to check out a surf spot called Trestles, located about an hour south of LA. Trestles is said to be one of the most consistent spots in all of North America. Therefore, I’m very happy to report that it lived up to our expectations 🙂

Trestles consists of several peaks spread out along a long stretch of beach, namely Church, Middles, Lower, Upper, and Cotton. I went out in between Middles and Lower (Eivind gave Lower a go). It was only me and a couple of good fellows from Florida out there, the wind was calm, and fun size waves of about 2-4 feet kept rolling in on a pretty regular basis. The only partly gnarly part is that the bottom is made up of round rocks, and with only waist deep water some places, one shouldn’t ride the waves too close to the shore. But it turned out to be a great session, I was able to catch a decent number of waves, and had a blast out there. So, I put together another video. Chose the Norwegian band Donkeyboy to accompany the GoPro clips this time, a song called Silver Moon.

Pacific Beach

Following Ocean Beach we moved just a few miles up the road to another part of San Diego, called Pacific Beach. PB is a little bigger than OB, and has more things going on, such as a pretty steaming nightlife. It also offers good surf, and we had three days in a row with very similar conditions (fun size surf around 2-3 feet). All three sessions took place around sunset, and afterwards I started playing around with the GoPro videos in Movie Maker, and ended up creating this short film. Music by Norwegian electronica artist Todd Terje, a song called Inspector Norse 🙂

Ocean Beach II

Yep, still in Ocean Beach (OB). Found such good vibes here, so we decided to stick around for a while. One reason being the hostel we’re staying at, the Ocean Beach International Hostel. It has a great location, friendly staff, and we met a lot of good people here. The staff is also great at organizing events, such as yoga, bike rides, pub crawls, and bonfires on the beach. So if you’re ever going to OB, check out this colorful hostel:

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In addition, every Wednesday it’s farmers market in the street right outside the hostel (Newport Ave) from 4pm – 8pm. Definitely worth a closer look, with tons of tasty food, clothes etc, and a homemade atmosphere to it.

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So we’ve been hanging out in the OB neighbourhood, and been going to the beach for surfing, pretty much every day. The surf hasn’t been great, but all in all it’s been okay. The size has been good, in the range between 3 and 5 feet, but it’s been a little messy out there. Waves are closing out, and it can be pretty tricky to read where they will peak. On the upside, the crowd has been relatively small. It’s been good practice though, and every once in a while I’ve caught a nice one. Here’s the money shot 🙂

Surfing Ocean Beach 3

I’d like to add that there’s heaps of seaweed at OB, especially close to the shore. When you paddle out, it almost feels like you’re floating through a field of grass. Every paddlestroke you take you feel the seaweed with your hands. I got used to it pretty fast, it’s just part of the environment out there. Besides, it makes for a fun beard 😉

Magic Seaweed

Thought I’d wrap up this post with a few clips from the last days, so you can get a glimpse of the highlights.

I shot this final clip as I was heading back to shore after doing a sunset session. In surfing there’s a term called transport. That’s when you bodyboard on a wave back to shore. I was really lucky with this one, it took me all the way! So, saved me from having to paddle back to the beach 😉

Ocean Beach

The adventure continues, and we have moved on from Hawaii to California. Currently staying in Ocean Beach, San Diego. It’s a chill neighbourhood down by the beach.

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What’s more, I’ve bought a new board. Well, not exactly new, more like second or third or maybe even tenth hand. The point being one can definitely tell it has been used, it’s a little banged up. But it’s still definitely surf-worthy. The dimensions are: 6’6 long, 20 3/4 wide, and 2 5/8 thick. The eager reader will notice that I’m gradually going down in size. If you remember the old board I traded off in Australia, it was 7’4, 22, and 2 3/4. It’s a sign of improvement that I can go down in size and still catch waves, as a bigger board is usually easier to get up on. I do feel like I picked up my game a couple of marks in Hawaii, so here’s to improvement, however slow it may be 😉

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I feel like the dealer I bought it from, Coconut Pete’s, deserves a shoutout. The price for the board with fins, new pad, new leash, basecoat, and wax came to a total of $172,- That’s a pretty freaking fair price right there.

I’ve gone out with the board three times so far. All the sessions have been right down the road, at Ocean Beach. It’s been fairly small, like 3-4 feet, maybe 5 on a few occasions. The wind has been moderate, but it has been a little bumpy out there, and the interval between the swells has been a little short, so clean waves are hard to come by. Perhaps that’s why the crowd has been almost non-existent, which is a big plus. There are definitely fun waves coming through every now and then though.

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As mentioned in my previous post, the Pacific ocean claimed my GoPro in Hawaii. Therefore I had to buy a new one, working with the GoPro is too much fun to cheap out on. Went for the GoPro 4 Silver Edition this time, an upgrade from my old 3 Black Edition. Today I took it out for the first time. Believe you me, I made sure that thing was SECURELY attached! The results are absolutely satisfying, it shoots crystal clear videos. Here are a couple of samples, the first one from a wave I caught right by the pier.

And here’s another one, had the pleasure of riding this wave a bit longer 🙂

Oahu surf report and a small hike

We’ve been on Oahu now for a little more than a week. The temperature has really picked up since we first arrived here, climbing up to almost 30 degrees celsius lately. Most pleasant 🙂 We’ve also enjoyed some good surfing up on the infamous North Shore. I’ve been renting different boards every day. It’s fun to try on a variety of boards, and definitely a useful experience to experiment with different shapes and sizes. Here’s a quick run-through of the latest surf:

Saturday: Went to Sunset Beach. The size of the waves were about 3-5 feet, little wind, and a quite small crowd. Super conditions in other words, I caught a bunch of waves, and had a ton of fun out there. The only gnarly part was that the waves were breaking over some half-way shallow reef, so I felt the bottom a couple of times, but still felt I had control.

Sunday: Went to Sunset Beach again. The swell had picked up quite a bit, and waves up to double overhead (12 feet) were coming in. The spot was a completely different scenario compared to the day before. It’s some of the biggest waves I’ve ever been out in, and they were hollow as well, so I didn’t catch a single one. However, it was a very useful experience just to be out there, and maneuver around the sets. I did get washed pretty good one time though, must have been under for about ten seconds. No stress though. Here’s what it was like (look way out there):

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Monday: Checked out a spot called Freddyland. When we first got in it was very good, but it changed after about ten minutes. The waves became fat and tricky to read, not least to catch. An average day of surfing.

Tuesday: Went back to Sunset Beach again. The swell had calmed down, waves were about 4-6 feet, and almost no wind. Pretty big crowd, but only a few really good surfers were out there. I rented a board with a GoPro mount, so I reckoned it was time to do some filming again. I caught a nice wave after only five minutes out there, rode it for a little while, then jumped off. As I got back up, the GoPro was nowhere to be seen! The damn thing fell off 😦 I don’t know how it happened, the foot must have been worn or something. It felt rock solid when I attached it, but I guess not. Such a bummer, bloody hell is an understatement. Guess I’ll have to buy a new. Besides the very expensive wave it was a good session out there.

We also did a small hike this morning, before going surfing. Went up a small peak called Diamond Head which is right by Honolulu. It’s an old volcanic crater, and the top offers a nice view of the city and the other surroundings. There used to be an army base up there, and the bunkers are part of the attraction.

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This almost concludes our stay in Hawaii. On Thursday night we’re flying over to Los Angeles.