This week we’ve been surfing at Kedungu, a pretty sweet reef-break spot. Been riding a 7 foot 8 inch bamboo-board this week. My main focus these days has been on 1) getting the timing of catching a wave right and 2) turning and wave orientation. Quite a few waves go by where I’m either too late or too early getting up, but I feel I’m improving a little bit each day. And when I catch a wave I need to orientate better, like in the video below where I stay up high on the wave for way too long, I should be going more downwards to gain more speed and prolong the surfing. But I’ll get there, it’s only a matter of keep pushing, and I’m having a ton of fun out there, plus I’m riding pretty good size waves for a beginner 🙂
My mate Eivind has been surfing very well! I’m trying to catch up with him as he has a few weeks more experience than me, but so far he’s still a little ahead. Here’s a video of him from Kedungu.
Unfortunately, Eivind got beaten up by the shorebreak today. Got hit in the face by the board and hurt his foot being washed around, so he got a little limp now. Hopefully he’ll be back on the board soon!
The conditions out in the water can get pretty rough sometimes, is my first-hand experience so far. I got a black eye last week from hitting the board (not so bad that it bothered me in any way), but I also got some slight pain in my left bicep. I’m pretty sure it happened during an Eskimo-roll, trying to wrestle for the board with the wave might have caused a small stretch in the muscle. Luckily, I don’t use the bicep much when I’m paddling, and it’s not painful, just a little sore sometimes after a session. I might give it a few days rest after this week, we’ll see how it goes. Some minor injuries must be expected in this game, there’s power in the waves out there, but that’s also part of what makes this sport so much fun! 🙂
I also had to lend a hand to some poor German girl the other day. I was in the impact zone where the waves are breaking and coming towards you one after another, and saw a board without its owner. Suddenly a girl comes up from the deep blue, and she was panicking, yelling “I can’t breath” over and over again. So, I tried my best to calm her down and got her up on the board. I told her I’d go back to the beach with her, so she was laying on the board and I pushed her to the channel and paddled towards the shore. We were about 100 meters out, so it took a while to get back, and the water was a little choppy that day. Half way back a fellow from Bali joined in and we got the girl safely back to the shore. Felt pretty good to be able to help out like that 🙂