Surfing at Old Man’s

This morning at 8 o’clock we went down to a place called Old Man’s on Canggu beach. Conditions were just plain awesome, just a small breeze and almost glassy water. Waves were breaking steadily and it wasn’t too crowded. Since I dented my board yesterday, I tried out a new one today. Went down from 9 feet to 8 feet and 5 inches long, a 23 inch wide soft-top. After a couple of attempts where I didn’t have enough pressure on my front-foot and fell off backwards, I was able to catch some good ones on my own 🙂 Tomorrow I’ll start working more on wave orientation, and try to do some more turns.

 

 

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