First week of surfing

It’s Friday which concludes the first week of surfing. We’ve been heading out every morning between 7 and 8, mostly to Kuta Beach. This means that we get up about half an hour earlier for a light breakfast, and the drive to the beach is about 45 minutes. Then we surf for about an hour and a half, before driving home for a solid second breakfast. The food at the Balicamp is fantastic, and with the appetite that we work up during surfing, coming back to the camp for second breakfast is such a good way to wrap up a session.

Since Tuesday I’ve been riding a big old 9 foot board, which suits both my weight and my level of skill well. Happy to say that progress has been made every day, and I’ve been able to catch a couple of green waves on my own, and some more with the help of my coaches. Nevertheless, I still feel clumsy like some sort of hippo out there, especially getting up on the board. Watching videos of myself reveals quite a few technical details which requires immediate attention and improvement. And perhaps most important, I need to get more of a feel of it, get the timing right, and build up more paddling strength. But it’s so much fun! Even though I ended up getting thrown around like a rag doll a few times this week, got caught in the so called washing machine.

One of the neatest tricks I’ve learned this week is to Eskimo roll. When you lay on the board heading out and you see a wave building up and breaking in front of you, you simply roll around so that you lay protected beneath the board. As you feel the wave washing over you, you grab a tight hold of the top of the board, and give it a kick at the bottom. That way, the wave passes above you, you can roll over again, and continue paddling out. 

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